HOME INSULATING

How to soundproof your property

Part E of the Building Regulations was introduced to improve soundproofing for all new and converted buildings, particularly to separating walls and floors, and to common areas.

This is known as Part E or ‘Resistance to the Passage of Sound‘. But of course this doesn’t  do a lot for the other 99% of us who don’t live in recently built homes. So with a view to upgrading existing buildings, let’s start by looking at how soundproofing works. 

How soundproofing works

The best way to reduce sound is either to block it or absorb it – ideally both. To reduce noise through a wall or floor, a high density sound blocker must be used. The more mass there is in any form of sound blocker the more effective it will be at blocking noise. In combination with a sound absorber this can give very good levels of sound reduction to most walls, floors and ceilings.

Higher density acoustic plasterboard is a fairly cheap sound blocker readily available and when used in layers is will give good levels of sound reduction.

Mineral wool (eg loft quilt) of the correct density and thickness is a very efficient sound absorber and can be fitted in stud walls and between timber floor and ceiling joists, which can then be clad with 2 or more layers of acoustic plasterboard with a skim finish.

A common mistake made by many is to use polystyrene or celotex (polyurethane) type insulation. These materials are good for thermal insulation but very little acoustic value.

As a rule, windows and doors often let in the most noise from outside, followed by roofs and lofts. Adequate loft insulation will help soundproof this area by absorbing some of the noise that comes through the roof.

Even double glazed windows offer little soundproofing. Secondary glazing is the best option – ie fitting additional double glazed windows on the inside with a large space between them and the existing window ( See Haynes Home Insulation Manual)

With all glazing, it is important to ensure that all the panes are sealed and there are no gaps that will allow noise leakage. With doors, a really heavy solid door installed with seals to ensure an airtight seal when closed. Acoustic door seal kits can make a big difference, and door panels can be made thicker by lining with insulation.

Information courtesy Soundservice.co.uk

All materials used to sound proof a room will have varying effectiveness at either blocking or absorbing noise. Known as STC ratings (Sound Transmission Class) the higher these ratings the more effective the soundproofing will be. Most normal materials found in the home will have an STC rating even if it is not designed for a specific sound control purpose such as windows, masonry walls and carpets. Insulation designed specifically for noise control will have a measured STC rating as well as additional qualities to make them efficiently insulate against noise pollution.

Materials

* Sound absorbing acoustic foams

* Soundproofing mats

* Resilient insulation for floating floors,

* Resilient bars for ceilings and stud walls

* Sound absorbing tiles for ceilings and walls

* Class C sound absorbers for common areas of flats

* Bass traps, diffusers, anti-vibration materials

Download this Step-By-Step photo guide to sound-proofing a stud wall

The above information provided courtesy BRE

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